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Push the rear of the arm sideways so that the arm swings away from the bolt, causing the thin strip on the other side of the arm to press firmly against the contactor screw. The thin strip and the screw must make full contact with one another. While still pressing against the rear of the arm, put a nail in the remaining hole; and pound both nails all the way in.      Finally, mount the code key, using a screw. Bend the key so that the free end is about l/2” above the board. You will need a contacting terminal on the board directly under the free end of the key. Use a small round head screw. If you’ve put a knob on the key, the base screw should be directly beneath the knob screw. Be sure the contacting portion under the key is scraped clean, to the bare metal. Hooking-Up the Circuit      This is the simplest part of the whole project. Just make the connections as indicated on the circuit diagram. In all cases, bare metal should be touching bare metal, and the connections should be tight. It would be best if you could solder the wire leading to the contactor screw. If you can’t, wrap the wire around the screw and twist it with a pair of pliers. In either case, allow enough wire for the screw to be turned. For the base of the arm, lift one of the nails just enough to tie the wire around it. Then pound it back down.      Both wires to the code key should be looped clockwise around the loosened screws. After tightening the screws and connecting the battery, you are ready to try out the set. Adjusting the Set      Start with a gap of about 1/8” between vibrator arm and bolt face. Tap the code key a few times. You should get some kind of response. To find the best setting, adjust the contactor screw and the spring force of the vibrator arm against the screw. You can also vary the sound of the buzz with the slider clip. Bend it in half and place it on top the vibrator arm.