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FORMING THE VIBRATOR ARM: Finish cutting and folding the 1” by 10” strip as shown in the drawings. Tap the folded ends with a hammer to keep the layers of metal close together. Punch two holes in the base so the arm can be mounted.      MAKING THE CONTACTOR: Since you will have to experiment to find the best spacing between contactor and bolt head, the contactor should be adjustable. That’s why a screw is used. A 1” brass screw with the point filed flat makes a good contactor.      To prepare the holder, lay the 1” by 1” by 3/8” piece of wood flat; and in the exact center drill a hole slightly smaller than the screw. Drive the screw through the wood.      CUTTING OUT THE CODE KEY: Once you’ve snipped a 1/2” by 3” strip from the tin can, the code key is practically made. All that remains to be done is to punch a hole about 1/2” from one end so the key can be screwed to the base board. If you want a fancier key, you can attach a small wooden knob to the sending end. With a round head screw, fasten the knob to the key by screwing from the bottom up. In that way the screw head can serve as an electrical contact. Mounting the Parts on the Base      Using the main drawing as a reference, position the parts accordingly. The electromagnet can be held down a dozen different ways. A simple, yet professional looking way requires a tin-can strip about 1-1/2” by 3-1/2”. Shape the strip around the coil, and bend the ends outward so that they lie flat on the board. Punch a couple of holes in each end, then nail everything in place.      Next, locate the wooden holder for the contactor about 3/8” from the bolt head. Secure it in place either by gluing or by nailing from the bottom up.      To install the vibrator arm, proceed as follows: Line up the arm so that it is parallel with, and touching, the face of the bolt. Pound a nail part way in the hole that is nearer the bolt.